We got back yesterday from a two week safari to Rwanda. The main purpose of the trip was to participate in the Kigali Peace Marathon. Debra and I walked the 5 km fun run. Between the two of us, we raised almost $600 from the very generous donations of family and friends.
The long and winding road back to Kibaya
This badly needed money will be used to help Tanzanian women start small businesses such as raising chickens, bee keeping, making peanut butter, juice and tomato sauce. Altogether the Cuso International and the VSO team here in Tanzania raised over $7,000 for this very worthwhile project.
Tanzania is a much different kettle of fish than Rwanda. On the two day road trip through Tanzania with Fredrik, Leisbeth and Fran, fellow volunteers, we were stopped 10 times by the police and fined twice. In Rwanda there were no police road blocks.
Volunteers Liesbeth, Debra, Fredrik and Fran
We did the trip in Fredrik's 4X4 Nissan Patrol
Paying a fine in Tanzania is a very simple affair. There is no pesky paper work or inconvenient court appearances to worry your head about. Just the opposite, there are lots of smiles and handshakes. The police officer tells the driver how much the fine is and the driver just forks over the money. It is as simple as that.
Our fines were both for speeding but in reality they were for DWM or Driving While Mzungu. For the second fine Fredrik negotiated hard and the fine was cut in half. No cumbersome and time consuming receipt was written and there was no record of the fine but I am sure that the money was safely delivered to the government coffers by the police officer. If you believe that you probably already own fifty acres of swamp in Florida.
Slow down Fredrik there's a vulture at 12:00 o'clock!
In Rwanda there is a huge effort to combat the corruption that is holding much of Africa back. It seems to be working as Rwanda is much more highly developed than Tanzania even though it has a fraction of the natural resources and a recent history that was written in blood. This very green and mountainous country is as clean as a whistle; the houses are painted up, school classes have about 20 students each and the roads are free of the very dangerous pot-holes and police check points that plague Tanzania. On first sight it seems as if it is a theme park version of the Africa we are familiar with. Rwanda is open for business.
The Rwandans are very serious about ending corruption and encouraging investment
In Rwanda Saturday mornings are called Umuganda. The time is spent performing compulsory community service. Rwandans clean the streets, fill in pot-holes, build schools, weed the numerous public gardens and do other worthwhile projects. Nothing moves. The police lay down carpets of nails to prevent vehicle movement. You can't even buy a toothpick during Umuganda. Everything closes and everyone works for the community.
It seems to work well for them and although there are elections in Rwanda every seven years the current leader, Kagame, operates as a benevolent dictator. As one VSO volunteer working in Rwanda told me, “He is like the best head-master you could ever have.” The young receptionist at the Kigali hotel where we were staying summed it up by saying, “I love him.” When he shows up at soccer games the crowds go wild with joy.
One tortoise and two hares
Peter, Ishwar and Jean
Can you guess who the tortoise is?
Ironically, the hierarchical system and respect for authority that makes Umuganda work so well is the same organization that made the 1994 genocide possible. It is difficult to believe that only 18 years ago Hutus were hacking Tutsies to death by the hundreds of thousands with machetes and sharp farm implements. Nearly everyone in the country was involved as either perpetrator or victim.
Rwandans don't talk about it now and are trying to put it behind them as they develop their economy on a model similar to Singapore. When you see people on the streets though you can't help thinking about how they behaved 18 years ago.
The bridge that separates Tanzania from Rwanda
In 1994 250,000 Tutsie refugees fled to Tanzania over this bridge in 24 hours
and bodies were floating down the river in the background
Cuso International and VSO volunteers in Africa part of a big family and when we all get together it is wonderful. We kid each other, fool around, trade crazy stories about our experiences, eat huge meals, support each other and generally socialize to beat the band. Although the purpose of the trip was to participate in the marathon the real fun was had in re-connecting with our 'volunteer family.' This camaraderie is a big factor in making our experience here so fulfilling.
Debra and her two Friendly Giants
Fellow volunteers Djoke and Marc
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